Kuku sugar is a saffron-scented Isfahani dessert made from mashed potato and eggs, fried or baked until set, then soaked with rosewater syrup. Its name may sound savoury to anyone familiar with Persian kuku, but this version is deliberately sweet, soft and aromatic.

Isfahani kuku sugar pieces with saffron rosewater syrup pistachios and almonds

Ingredients for the kuku

  • 6 eggs
  • 3 medium potatoes
  • 1 teaspoon saffron threads, brewed in a little hot water
  • 1 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 4 tablespoons sugar
  • A small amount of vanilla extract
  • Neutral oil, for frying or greasing
  • Sliced almonds and pistachios, to decorate

Ingredients for the rosewater syrup

  • 1 1/2 cups water
  • 1 cup rosewater
  • 3 cups sugar
  • Brewed saffron, to taste
  • Ground cardamom, to taste

Cook and mash the potatoes

Wash the potatoes and boil them in their skins until a knife passes through easily. Drain and let them cool enough to handle, then peel and mash them very finely. A smooth mash helps the finished kuku hold together without obvious potato lumps.

Make the saffron rosewater syrup

Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan. Warm gently, stirring only until the sugar dissolves, then bring to a steady simmer. Add the rosewater, saffron and cardamom and simmer for about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the syrup cool.

It should remain pourable rather than reaching a thick candy stage. The kuku needs time to absorb it after cooking.

Mix the kuku sugar batter

  1. Whisk the eggs with the 4 tablespoons of sugar, vanilla, brewed saffron and ground cardamom until evenly blended and slightly foamy.
  2. Add the egg mixture gradually to the mashed potatoes, stirring until smooth.
  3. Mix in about 4 tablespoons of the cooled syrup. The batter should be soft but cohesive.
  4. If it feels too loose to hold its shape, add up to 2 tablespoons of rice flour and let the mixture rest for a few minutes.

Fry the kuku

Warm a layer of oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Spoon in the batter and level it gently. Cook until the underside is golden and the centre has begun to set, then turn it carefully in sections or invert the whole kuku with a plate. Fry the second side until cooked through.

Transfer it to a serving dish and cut it into diamonds or squares. Pour over the remaining cooled syrup while the kuku is still warm, then leave it for at least 10 minutes to absorb the liquid. Finish with sliced almonds and pistachios.

Oven method

For an oven-baked kuku sugar, grease a suitable baking dish and spread the batter evenly. Bake in a preheated 190°C (375°F) oven for up to 45 minutes, checking earlier if the layer is shallow. It is ready when the centre is set and the edges are lightly golden. Cut and syrup it while warm.

Texture and sweetness notes

  • The ingredient quantities reflect a generously sweet dessert. Add the syrup gradually if you prefer a less saturated texture.
  • One tablespoon of icing sugar can replace some of the granulated sugar in the egg mixture, but it does not replace the large syrup component.
  • Do not overwork the mashed potato after the eggs go in; excessive mixing can make the texture heavy.
  • Allow the pieces to absorb the syrup before moving them, or the warm kuku may break.

Serve the Esfahani kuku sugar at room temperature with tea. The contrast between saffron, rosewater and cardamom is clearest once the dessert has rested and the syrup has spread evenly through each piece.